Archive for March, 2009

Building and Using a Cold-Frame.

Sunday, March 29th, 2009


“Building and Using a Cold Frame”

A cold-frame is almost as important as a hotbed. The two should always go together. It is simply a frame of boards constructed like that of the hotbed, and set over a quantity of rich soil into which the seedlings from the hotbed are transplanted when they have attained some size.

This frame should also be fitted with a sash for the newly transplanted seedlings. The sash should be lifted on all pleasant days, to give the plants inside the benefit of fresh air, and thus harden them for the time when they must go into the ground outside.

At night and on all cold days the sash must be closed to retain the necessary degree of warmth. A little chilly weather will often injure the plants quite as much as a touch of frost would.

In sunny weather be sure to open the cold frame before the heat of the sun, by concentrating on the glass from becoming too intense for the young plants. The admission of fresh air will counteract all danger from this source.

The temperature in the cold-frame should range between 60 and 65 if one would grow strong and healthy plants, and of course one wants to grow nothing but strong healthy plants.

It will readily be understood from what has been said that both hotbed and cold-frame will require considerable amounts of attention. They can not be expected to take care of themselves after being built. They must be regulated according to the weather.

Air must be admitted whenever it is possible to do so without injury to the plants, and cold drafts must be avoided as one would avoid the plague. It will be necessary to consult the thermometer a good many times a day. That is what must be depended on more than anything else in the management of a hotbed and cold-frame.

In the north the first of March is quite early enough to start a hotbed for the growing of very early vegetables, and a month later for plants intended for general garden use.

It is not advisable to have plants remain in either the hotbed or cold-frame so long that they become weakened by too long continued heat. Injury of this kind can only be prevented by the proper admission of fresh air, and the regulation of the temperature as already advised.

I make mention of this again because it is something that no gardener should ignore, and I can’t help emphasizing this fact and how important it is.

Do not take the trouble to start any of the ordinary vegetables, which mature during the latter part of summer in the garden, in the hotbed. They will come ahead rapidly enough if planted in the open ground, where they will be much easier to care for.

This article on Building and Using a Cold-Frame is brought to you by www.backyard-gardening.com

No Tags

How to Construct a Hot Bed for Backyard Gardening

Sunday, March 8th, 2009


“How to Construct a Hot Bed”

The making of a hotbed frame is a simple piece of carpentry. At the back it should be about eighteen inches high. If it is six feet wide there should be a slope of six or eight inches towards the sun. This would make the front ten or twelve inches deep, according to the slope decided on.

The slope is one of the important things to consider, for the sash should be just the right angle to receive the fullest possible exposure from the sun. If too flat, or too upright, you fail to get the warmth desired. Therefore be sure to adjust the angle giving you the optimum benefit of the sun.

Bevel the back and front of the boards of the frame, so the sash will hug closely and fit snugly all around. Care should be taken, in putting the frame together, to have every joint perfect, otherwise poor joints and ill fitting sash will allow heat to escape more rapidly than it is generated, thus making the hotbed a failure.

If more than one sash is used for each frame or section, a sturdy piece of wood should run from the front to the back so the pieces of the sash can rest on the sturdy piece of wood where they meet. If large pieces of sash are used, you will find them to be quite heavy, therefore the frame and its cross-strips should in turn be be made of strong construction.

It pays to take the time to do the job right for a good hot bed frame will last for many seasons if well constructed and properly cared for after it is emptied of its seedlings.

It often happens that we have severe weather after we get the hot-bed in operation. In such cases we must cover the sash with something that will prevent frost from forming on the glass and radiating cold down upon the delicate young plants. Strips of matting, old carpet, straw, or blankets, will work well in preventing damage to these young plants.

If the weather is bright and warm, it will be necessary to allow a little bit of air into the hotbed for the seedlings during the middle of the day; but do not lift the sash too much, and be sure that no cold wind can blow in upon the tender plants.

To facilitate this part of the work, it is a good idea to have the sash hung with hinges, at the back of the frame. If this is done, the sash can be raised or lowered without slipping out of place, as they will be quite likely to do, if simply placed over the frame without fastening.

When sowing seed in the hotbed, cover the seeds lightly with soil and press the soil down enough to make it somewhat firm, but do not pack it solidly. Water can be applied, as needed, with a hose having a spray nozzle. Never use a stream of water when watering plants in the hotbed, as this will wash the soil away from the roots of the plants.

If the glass becomes covered with moisture, after watering or from evaporation at any time during the day, lift the sash a little to allow the surplus moisture to pass off, and clear the glass so that the rays of the sun will shine on the plants freely.

This article on How to Construct a Hot Bed for Backyard Gardening is brought to you by www.backyard-gardening.com

No Tags