Archive for December, 2005

Mulch, Mulches, Mulching

Wednesday, December 28th, 2005

Mulch, Mulches, Mulching

One of the most important part of gardening is
mulching. It keeps down weeds by blocking the light
that allows weeds to germinate. Mulch will slow down
the evaporation of moisture from the soil, which also
will keep the soil from drying out and creating a
crusty soil.

Earthworms love organic mulch, they eat the organic
matter and produce castings. When they move around in
the soil the tunnels they make aerates the soil and
improves the texture. Other organisms do the same. All
the work they do makes a nutrient-rich substance that
our plants need.

This process is actually decomposition, which adds
valuable organic humus to the soil.

Simple steps to mulching:

1. Distribute the mulch material to a depth of at least
3 to 5 inches. The more coarse the material, the more
you add.

2. Place the mulch between and around the plants, but
allow the immediate area around the base of the stems
of annuals and perennials to be free of it.

3. Moisten the mulch.

When mulching trees and shrubs, keep the mulch
approximately 5 – 10 inches from the base of the tree.
Over time mulch on trunks, even with organic matter too
close to the trunk of the plant, will cause many
problems down the road.

The wood mulch keeps the soil cool and maintains an
even soil temperature. If bark chips and sawdust are
used they may delete nitrogen from the soil when they
decompose, so add some nitrogen to the soil first
before and then after laying down such mulches.

Look at organic wastes like shredded tree barks or
light pruning, seasoned sawdust, wood shavings, peanut
shells, cocoa bean hulls, rice husks, ground corn cobs,
grass clippings, unused vegetable waste and seaweed.

Black Plastic Sheets
If organic methods are not your style then take a look
at black plastic sheets that are used for mulching the
soil. It affords excellent weed control and moisture
conservation, if done properly.

Lay the plastic mulch on top of the soil or beds
beforehand, then cut x-shaped slits in the plastic and
then just fold back underneath the flaps to plant. When
performing this method make sure not to completely fill
the hole in the plastic with the plant even when
mature.

Place holes or slits on the sides around the plastic to
allow the passage of water and air for the benefit of
the roots. The extra slits are crucial when using
plastic to allow excess moisture to drain and prevent
water-logging, which can happen on wet days.

Compost
When we speak of mulching we often mean using a layer
of organic material on the surface of the soil, from
dried lawn clippings to strips of newspapers. As time
goes by this organic material decomposes because of the
various agents present in the soil and will yield the
all-important humus matter.

If you plan on using animal manure, which is a
nutrient-rich mulch, it should be combined with other
material like lawn clippings or straw. Make sure this
mixture is well rotted and then it will provide much
needed nitrogen to the soil.

Compost or compost mixed with a rough mulch (called
living mulch) is an excellent pick for mulching your
soil or beds. Compost is the best form of mulch.

Mulch-mowing Method
Mulch-mowing is a simple method of using fallen leaves.
A good sharp mulcher blade on a lawn mower will be the
best mulcher you can find. It will cut the grass blades
into tiny pieces and at the same time, using the
shredded leaves, produce a rougher textured mulch to
cover the soil.

Use this method every week to get the maximum benefit
of the mulch on the ground. This will keep the chore
easier to handle every week and provide a fresh supply
of mulch to start decomposing and forming new organic
matter to feed the soil and keep moisture.

With mulch-mowing it keeps fewer leaves on the street
that clog the drain system and from causing other
hazards for the community.

Whatever you do, mulch is a critical part of gardening
and lawn maintenance. You never know when there will be
a lack of rain or too much of it, a freeze comes along,
lack of nutrients needed for the plant. If you mulch
properly then you are prepared for the unexpected. Back
to the basics.

This article on Mulch is brought to you by www.backyard-gardening.com

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Keeping Soil Happy

Saturday, December 17th, 2005

Keeping Soil Happy

Soil is a composition of weather-beaten rock, minerals,
decayed plant materials and other organic ingredients.
All this takes a long time to develop, but can be
damaged by our action or neglect in a single season.

Plants can obtain nutrients from the soil using their
roots and change them to usable materials to grow new
roots, leaves and flowers.

All gardeners are to be custodians of the soil, taking
the time to replace food and other elements as they are
used. Since our soil is so important we need to treat
it like we want to be treated, not like dirt.

For soil to be healthy it should contain a balanced mix
of air, water, nutrients and organic matter. There are
a couple things we can do to protect this mixture.

Adding organic matter on a regular basis is probably
one of the most important things we can do. Adding
compost, cover crops and animal manure can do many
things:
+increases the soil’s capability to hold nutrients.
+makes food available to plants over a longer period of
time.
+lessen the amount of nutrients lost by erosion or
leaching.
+provides micro-nutrients that are needed by plants in
small amounts.
+release nutrients already in the soil by increasing
the action of beneficial microorganisms.
+increases the water-holding capacity for sandy soils.
+increase the drainage of clay soils.
+saves money.

Do not apply fertilizer to lawns until we get a good
soaking rain, and for best, safest, long-lasting
results use organic fertilizers. The wet soil puts the
nutrients into a solution and helps distribute the
nutrients to the plant roots to be absorbed.

The ability of soil to drain water is important. But
when you read phrases like “plant in a well-drained
soil” or “does not like wet feet”, they are talking
about the plant’s need for air. The roots of plants
require oxygen and any soil that is waterlogged will be
lacking oxygen.

Many plants will put up with high moisture-conditions
during the growing season, but when the plants are
dormant the same conditions may kill them. By improving
the drainage the plant will have a better growing
environment.

Another problem is soil becoming compacted by tractors
and other equipment or just by tilling it year after
year. You will find soil compaction in most soils, from
gardens to farm fields.

Tilling the soil when it is too wet will clump and ruin
the composition of the soil. This condition takes a
long period of time to bring it back to health. To tell
if the soil is too wet take a handful and squeeze it,
if it crumbles in your hand then it is ready to till
but if it clumps then it is too wet. Some people now
believe that tilling at all is not good for the
structure of the soil. It exposes the helpful
microorganisms to the environment and they are
destroyed.

However, gardeners may wonder if it is best to till the
garden in the fall or spring. Tilling the soil in the
fall has advantages over springtime. When spring
arrives it allows for earlier planting since the basic
soil preparation is done. Tilling in the fall allows a
large amount of organic matter to be turned into the
soil and start decomposing because the microbes are
active currently.

An excellent source of organic matter is the fall
leaves. Try tilling a thick layer of leaves into the
soil this fall and by spring it will have decomposed.

Sowing a cover crop, like winter rye, is very
beneficial by adding valuable nutrients and organic
matter when tilled into the soil the following spring.
Fall tilling will disrupt the bad insects, diseases and
weeds, reducing their population.

Fall is a good time to test your soil and should be
done every couple of years. In conclusion, doing all
the previous steps should be done the organic gardening
way. It’s back to basic.

This article on keeping your Soil happy is brought to you by www.backyard-gardening.com

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