Building and Using a Cold-Frame.

March 29th, 2009


“Building and Using a Cold Frame”

A cold-frame is almost as important as a hotbed. The two should always go together. It is simply a frame of boards constructed like that of the hotbed, and set over a quantity of rich soil into which the seedlings from the hotbed are transplanted when they have attained some size.

This frame should also be fitted with a sash for the newly transplanted seedlings. The sash should be lifted on all pleasant days, to give the plants inside the benefit of fresh air, and thus harden them for the time when they must go into the ground outside.

At night and on all cold days the sash must be closed to retain the necessary degree of warmth. A little chilly weather will often injure the plants quite as much as a touch of frost would.

In sunny weather be sure to open the cold frame before the heat of the sun, by concentrating on the glass from becoming too intense for the young plants. The admission of fresh air will counteract all danger from this source.

The temperature in the cold-frame should range between 60 and 65 if one would grow strong and healthy plants, and of course one wants to grow nothing but strong healthy plants.

It will readily be understood from what has been said that both hotbed and cold-frame will require considerable amounts of attention. They can not be expected to take care of themselves after being built. They must be regulated according to the weather.

Air must be admitted whenever it is possible to do so without injury to the plants, and cold drafts must be avoided as one would avoid the plague. It will be necessary to consult the thermometer a good many times a day. That is what must be depended on more than anything else in the management of a hotbed and cold-frame.

In the north the first of March is quite early enough to start a hotbed for the growing of very early vegetables, and a month later for plants intended for general garden use.

It is not advisable to have plants remain in either the hotbed or cold-frame so long that they become weakened by too long continued heat. Injury of this kind can only be prevented by the proper admission of fresh air, and the regulation of the temperature as already advised.

I make mention of this again because it is something that no gardener should ignore, and I can’t help emphasizing this fact and how important it is.

Do not take the trouble to start any of the ordinary vegetables, which mature during the latter part of summer in the garden, in the hotbed. They will come ahead rapidly enough if planted in the open ground, where they will be much easier to care for.

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How to Construct a Hot Bed for Backyard Gardening

March 8th, 2009


“How to Construct a Hot Bed”

The making of a hotbed frame is a simple piece of carpentry. At the back it should be about eighteen inches high. If it is six feet wide there should be a slope of six or eight inches towards the sun. This would make the front ten or twelve inches deep, according to the slope decided on.

The slope is one of the important things to consider, for the sash should be just the right angle to receive the fullest possible exposure from the sun. If too flat, or too upright, you fail to get the warmth desired. Therefore be sure to adjust the angle giving you the optimum benefit of the sun.

Bevel the back and front of the boards of the frame, so the sash will hug closely and fit snugly all around. Care should be taken, in putting the frame together, to have every joint perfect, otherwise poor joints and ill fitting sash will allow heat to escape more rapidly than it is generated, thus making the hotbed a failure.

If more than one sash is used for each frame or section, a sturdy piece of wood should run from the front to the back so the pieces of the sash can rest on the sturdy piece of wood where they meet. If large pieces of sash are used, you will find them to be quite heavy, therefore the frame and its cross-strips should in turn be be made of strong construction.

It pays to take the time to do the job right for a good hot bed frame will last for many seasons if well constructed and properly cared for after it is emptied of its seedlings.

It often happens that we have severe weather after we get the hot-bed in operation. In such cases we must cover the sash with something that will prevent frost from forming on the glass and radiating cold down upon the delicate young plants. Strips of matting, old carpet, straw, or blankets, will work well in preventing damage to these young plants.

If the weather is bright and warm, it will be necessary to allow a little bit of air into the hotbed for the seedlings during the middle of the day; but do not lift the sash too much, and be sure that no cold wind can blow in upon the tender plants.

To facilitate this part of the work, it is a good idea to have the sash hung with hinges, at the back of the frame. If this is done, the sash can be raised or lowered without slipping out of place, as they will be quite likely to do, if simply placed over the frame without fastening.

When sowing seed in the hotbed, cover the seeds lightly with soil and press the soil down enough to make it somewhat firm, but do not pack it solidly. Water can be applied, as needed, with a hose having a spray nozzle. Never use a stream of water when watering plants in the hotbed, as this will wash the soil away from the roots of the plants.

If the glass becomes covered with moisture, after watering or from evaporation at any time during the day, lift the sash a little to allow the surplus moisture to pass off, and clear the glass so that the rays of the sun will shine on the plants freely.

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How to Start a Fruit and Vegetable Garden

February 27th, 2009

“How to Start a Fruit and Vegetable Garden”

Vegetable gardening can be a very rewarding experience. But if you’ve never had a vegetable garden before, the task can seem overwhelming. Here are several easy ways to start your first fruit or vegetable garden.

First, some vegetable gardening basics. Most vegetables need full sun, well-tilled soil, and the right fertilizers to bear fruit (or vegetables). Using the wrong soil enhancements will cause your plants to produce leaves and flowers, but little fruit. Most vegetables need long and deep water - water the roots, not the leaves. Pick your harvest regularly to encourage more fruit or vegetables. Finally, know when to plant, and when to harvest. This information will be found on the seed packet or the plant container. As you gain more experience, you will be able to rotate crops based on how early they mature.

One of the easiest ways to begin to grow vegetables is in a container. Buy your plant from a good nursery - don’t try and start with seeds. Select a planter large enough to hold the full grown plant, and fill with potting soil made for vegetables. Follow the directions on the plant container for watering and sunlight needs. Plants that do well in containers include tomatoes, strawberries, herbs, and peppers.

Seeds are usually more difficult to start a vegetable garden with than plants. But, there are some seeds that are easier to germinate than others. Carrots, lettuce, and peas are all easy seeds to plant and harvest in your vegetable garden. You can plant the seeds directly in the ground, and keep them well-watered until they sprout. Thin according to the package directions, and harvest at the proper time.

Another easy way to start a vegetable garden is to pick a few easy vegetables to grow, and start with plants, not seeds. You will need to choose an area of your yard that receives at least six to eight hours of sun light.

Prepare your vegetable garden by breaking up the soil with a rototiller or a cultivator hand tool depending on the size of your garden. Add organic material such as compost if your soil has a lot of clay, mix in some sand and peatmoss.

Now, decide which plants you will start your vegetable garden with. Once you know how big the mature plants will be, then you can figure out how many vegetable plants you can grow in your vegetable garden according to the space you have prepared. Vegetable and fruit plants that are easy to grow include tomatoes, squash, peppers, herbs, cucumbers, and strawberries.

So you are interested in growing a fruit garden. Start by choosing the type of fruit you know you will enjoy for years to come, read up on these variety of fruit and make sure they will grow in your environment were you live. For instance: Apple trees, Peach trees, blueberry bushes, black raspberry bushes, raspberry bushes and strawberries grow well in the North East. Trees and shrubs can also be an easy way to start fruit gardening. Keep in mind these varieties require different soil conditions and proper spacing to allow for proper air flow and healthy growth.

Blueberries require a very acid soil for healthy growth, especially high bush blueberries. Raspberries require large amount of space and once established will spread very quickly.

Start with one fruit tree or if you prefer, start with a couple of raspberry bushes or blueberry bushes, help them get established then see how these plants produce for you. If your fruit trees or fruit shrubs do well then move on to another variety. Plan ahead of time knowing that in the long run you plan on adding more fruit trees and fruit shrubs to your fruit garden leaving ample space for future fruit plants.

The benefits of growing your own fruit plants, once they have become established, is you won’t have to worry about planting new ones every year. Your plants will continue to produce fruit for you time after time provided you maintain your fruit garden on a regular basis. Be sure to prune, water and fertilize when necessary.

The time you spend correctly planting these plants in your fruit garden and maintaining them will more then pay off for you in the years to come.

There’s nothing better than fresh from the garden produce, and hopefully these ideas will help you start an easy vegetable (and fruit!) garden.

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Creating a Hot Bed

February 23rd, 2009

“Creating a Hot Bed”

A well-constructed hot-bed, well cared for, will enable the gardener to have vegetables of certain kinds nearly a month earlier than he can hope to have if he depends on the garden for them.

The location of the hot-bed is a matter of considerable importance. It should be on a soil that has good drainage, in a place well sheltered from wind, and fully exposed to the sun. It should also be near the house, for convenience in giving it frequent attention.

Let me say, right here, that the idea that almost anything in the shape of a pile of manure with a few boards about it and a covering of sash will answer all the purposes of a hotbed, as well as a more carefully constructed arrangement would be considered wrong.

To accomplish successful work you want to avoid cutting corners. Otherwise you will be creating a recipe for failure before you even get started.

A make-shift hotbed or cold frame is not one in which you will be likely to grow good plants,but will be a constant source of annoyance to you, and will very likely be the cause of entire failure in the growing of seedlings for early planting out. Therefore build with a view to successful results.

Fresh horse manure or cow manure, mixed with litter from bedding, is the material most generally made use of to furnish the heat required in the hot-bed. A quantity of this material is spread on the site selected for the hot-bed, covering a space somewhat larger than the bed itself is expected to be. Spread it in layers a few inches in depth, and tramp down each layer before another is added.

When the pile is eighteen inches or two feet in depth, finish off by rounding it over in such a manner that it will shed rain, or cover it with a waterproof cloth. Leave it in this condition for a few days till fermentation sets in. This can be told by a warm moisture which will be seen rising from it. The mass should then be well forked over,
shaking out the long straw, as this is done, and made into another compact heap, as at first. In two or three days it will give evidence of further heating.

After this it is likely to be in a condition for final disposition in the bed. As the manure is now thrown into shape, pack it down well, making it as uniformly compact as possible. It is quite important that the foundation should have considerable solidity, as you will soon discover that a heap of loose litter amounts to next to nothing for hot-bed purposes.

There should be not less than two feet of this material. The frame, which the wise gardener will have constructed in advance of the season, should now be put in place, and fitted with sash. Bank up well outside the frame with coarse manure, firmly packed down. Allow the sash to remain in place until strong heat is generated.

When this begins to decrease and the thermometer does not register more than 85 or 90, cover the manure inside the frame with about six inches of the finest soil you can obtain. When this is done, the bed is ready for use.

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Starting Vegetable Seeds in Your House

February 8th, 2009

“Starting Vegetable Seeds in Your House”

The only way to have very early vegetables is to take time with both
hands by the reins and start seeds indoors while the ground is still
cold.

In the Northern States it is especially important to make an early
start, when starting seeds in your house, if vegetables like tomatoes,
eggplants, cauliflower, early cabbages, celery and peppers are desired.

Of course there is some advantage in having a hotbed, but its operation
involves too much skill and requires too much attention to make it
suitable for use in the backyard garden.

Starting seeds in your house using your kitchen space is a much simpler
matter, and the results are likely to be satisfactory if the started plants
can be set in a cold frame later.

Garden shops use what they call flats, which are merely shallow
boxes the right size to be handled easily, and about two inches
high. Anyone can make good substitutes for flats by obtaining a
few old boxes at the grocery store and cutting them down to the
right size.

The boxes should be filled with good garden loam, with which a
very little sand has been mixed. Or sterile planting media such
as vermiculite.

If soil is available, then it is advisable for you to put the boxes
of soil into the oven of the kitchen stove until it has become
thoroughly heated. This will kill the weed seeds and save you so much
trouble later on. However It is not recommended that you bake the soil
too long.

When starting vegetable seeds in your house, you will find some seeds are
very fine and only need to be pressed into the soil, and a little sand then,
can be sprinkled over the seeds. Furrows for the larger seeds can be made
with the point of a pencil, and should be about an inch and a half apart.

Many beginners have difficulty in watering their seed boxes after
the seed has been planted. One plan is to set the box in a pan of water
and let the water soak through from the bottom.

A much better plan, when starting seeds in your house, is to get a piece of
tissue paper, just the size of the box, and lay it on the soil. If water is then
applied lightly to the paper, it will gradually soak through and the seeds will
not be washed away.

There will be no need to remove the paper, from youe seeds that have been
started in your house. The paper will have become so thoroughly water
soaked by the time the little plants appear, that they will easily push their
way through.

It is best to keep a clear cover over the box so light can shine through
until the seedlings started in your house, emerge from the soil, the box
can then be set in a warm place like the back of your stove.

The clear cover may be removed once the seedlings have burst through the
soil and the box can then, be placed in a sunny window.

As soon as possible the little plants should be thinned out so that they
will not touch. Once your plants have made their first true leaves, or in
some cases even earlier, they should be transplanted to other flats, or
better still, to paper pots which can be set close together in any box.

The principal advantage of using paper pots for your vegetable seeds in
your house is so the plants can be set into the ground, when large enough,
without disturbing the roots. The paper pots do not need to be removed, for
they will eventually rot away, and while they remain in the soil, the sides will
also form a barrier to keep away any cutworms that could endanger any
started plants.

If you have a cold frame which can be used through April,then tomato plants
and pepper plants may be started as early as the first of March indoors.
All the other seedlings can be started after the fifteenth of March.

If you keep your started vegetable seedlings in the house too long,
the plants are apt to become spindly. They will make better growth in a
cold frame which can be opened on warm days.

For the beginning backyard gardener who has only a very small garden, will
probably buy started plants, and perhaps this is the best plan for the
beginning backyard gardener.

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How to Start and Maintain an Indoor Herb Garden

January 7th, 2009

“How to Start and Maintain an Indoor Herb Garden”

If you are craving good comfort foods, you will find that fresh herbs add to the taste of a delicious home-cooked meal. It is satisfying to be able to just pick a few herbs and add them to all your family dishes from your own indoor herb garden. What do you need to get started? All it takes are a few properly prepared containers and some sunlight. Some helpful tips on growing and maintaining herbs follow.

The first thing to know is that you should grow the herbs that you and your family like best. Some suggestions include parsley, rosemary, oregano, dill, and sage. If you have an outside area, you can add basil and fennel or you can purchase these fresh from the herb section of your grocery store. If you purchase plants from the local nursery, you will save yourself a lot of time over growing seeds. You do not have to choose the largest plants, simply look for the ones that are most healthy and show the most rounded growth.

Most garden centers will be able to point you in the right direction on the proper containers and soil to use. One rule to consider is that the container must have the proper drainage as herbs do best in dry soil. You may want to use a water container under the pots to catch water run off and a little gravel in the bottom of the pot will help keep the soil from washing away. Most herb growers recommend that you do not have the richest mixture of soil as this makes a lot of foliage but produces very little flavor. What is most recommended is two parts potting soil to one part coarse sand. Perlite is often used as well. This will guarantee the plants will provide plenty of taste in your cooking.

Herbs will like a south or west facing window that receives at least six hours of sunlight each day. If you do not have the sunlight, you can use artificial light, but that seems to take away from the naturalness of the process for many gardeners. You will need to water weekly or twice weekly, but do not over water. Fertilizer should be used and should be a slow timed release type such as pellets or sticks and are available at any garden store.

You can take and use the leaves of the herbs daily or you can dry them and store them to use later. If you want to encourage new growth, be sure to cut off whole stems and not just the leaves. Do not butcher the plant down, though, as it will not live if you take off more than one-third of the total plant at one time.

To dry the herbs, just take and hang them upside down. This encourages the oils to flow back into the leaves. This process takes from two to four weeks. Once dry, store the herbs in a cool and dark place.

As you can tell from the above, herbs are simple to grow and add a freshness to your foods that cannot be purchased. You will have the satisfaction of providing for yourself and your family by growing herbs on your window sill. You can have pungent and tasty herbs 365 days a year with just a very little effort.

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How to Get Started Birdwatching

December 20th, 2008

“How to Get Started Birdwatching”

Bird watching may be both one of the world’s easiest
and most difficult hobbies. This seemingly
contradictory statement can be explained because bird
watching may be pursued at many different levels, from
the most simple to the most complicated.

At its simplest level, one can be a bird watcher –
also known as a birder — simply by looking out a
window and observing the various winged creatures that
may be passing by or hopping past. On the opposite end
of the scale, one may purchase the most costly,
high-powered telescope and portable tripod and traipse
across the globe in search of some of nature’s most
marvelous and colorful creatures.

Although, for most bird watchers, the purpose for their
hobby is to gain knowledge about nature, some people
have used the observation of avian creatures as the
starting point for very serious scientific research.
Probably the most famous example of this is Charles
Darwin. He was a naturalist aboard a sailing ship,
traveling to such far-away locations as Ecuador’s
Galapagos Island. It was Darwin’s observation of
different variety of finches that led to the
development of his theory of natural selection.

It is likely that the two most important tools for a
would-be bird watcher are an identification reference
guides and visual aids. A trip to a local public
library is a good way to borrow a reference guide. Some
of the most popular and widely used books for birders
are those published by the Audubon Society.

Binoculars and telescopes are the two choices
for making it easier to see far-away birds.
Binoculars offer the advantages of being less
costly, more portable and more compact in size,
but a telescope is the first choice for the very
serious bird watcher, as their magnification is usually
superior, and, when mounted on a secure tripod, the
image is less shaky and easier to see.

One excellent way to learn about birds is to go on an
outing with an experienced naturalist. At a Migratory
Bird Sanctuary in Delta, British Columbia, Canada,
where over 280 different bird species have been
sighted, such an opportunity is offered every Sunday
morning.

For no extra charge other than the basic
admission fee, people can walk along the paths with a
veteran birder. He will point out the various resident
and migratory birds that he observes, often pointing
his telescope at an owl, snow goose, chickadee, or
whatever feathered feature catches his fancy.

Although birds are easiest to see in the winter and
early spring when there are no leaves on the trees,
birding is usually more pleasant during warmer months.
For this reason, it is equally important to be able to
identify birds by sound as it is by sight.

Like any hobby, the more one learns about a topic, the
more interesting and fascinating it becomes. After a
few walks through nearby parks and other birding areas,
one may be motivated to purchase or construct a feeding
station and bring the birds to you.

That is the easiest kind of birding, when the birds come to you,
rather than you having to go out and look for them.

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The Myths Behind the Holiday Evergreen Wreath

December 1st, 2008

“The Myths Behind the Holiday Evergreen Wreath”

Today’s holiday celebrations are connected to ancient
ways by the season and by the beauty and symbology of
the evergreen tree. Celts, Romans, early Christians,
and civilizations around the world lived close to
nature and the outdoors. They worshipped within groves
of ancient trees. Early pagans would honor the largest
tree by placing presents beneath it, and many cultures
tied items to tree branches as symbols of prayers or
thanks.

Trees and other plants that stayed green the year round
were considered to have power. The evergreen tree
symbolized power over darkness and death, and
represented the never-ending cycle of the natural
world. Life continues its cycle even in the coldest and
darkest of days of the year.

Wreaths are an ancient symbol of victory. In the case
of the holiday wreath, this can be imagined as victory
over darkness, winter, or death. The circular shape
represents eternal rebirth, while evergreens symbolize
eternal life. Laurel has been used since the Roman
Empire as a symbol for victory; cedar suggests strength
and healing; and holly, pine and yew represent
immortality.

Even cultures that celebrated outdoors began bringing
evergreens indoors as reminders that the sun would
return. Some of the other natural items used to
decorate wreaths also had ancient significance. For
example, Holly is also an evergreen tree, which in
Celtic times was recognized as growing hidden among the
oaks for much of the year, but asserting itself over
its brother the Oak. As winter approached the Oak lost
its leaves and, symbolically, its power.

The Romans celebrated Saturnalia, and the holly tree
was considered sacred to Saturn. In spite of protests
from the Christian church, many Christians adopted both
holly and other evergreens into their Christmas
celebrations. Holly’s prickly leaves have come to
symbolize Jesus’ crown of thorns, and the red berries
represent drops of his bloodshed to save mankind.

On the other hand, Druids believed that holly warded
off witches and lightning, and many brought holly into
their homes during the winter months to provide shelter
for fairies during the storms.

As we weave our holiday garlands and wreaths, we can
remember these ancient stories of faith and hope, and
weave some of these images into our decorations as
well. But the holiday season is a time of generosity
and festivity whether you believe these ancient stories
or not. No knowledge or belief is necessary to
appreciate a wreath’s beauty and welcoming spirit.

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Bird Watching Through Children’s Eyes

November 18th, 2008

“Bird Watching Through Children’s Eyes”

What child hasn’t been delighted to see his first bird up close? Maybe it was a humble sparrow or a squawking seagull - whatever they are, birds are a natural delight to watch and can be seen anywhere in the world.

If you are looking for an activity that you can enjoy with your children, whether they’re five or 15, you might want to consider the popular hobby of bird watching. It is one of the fastest growing outdoor activities in America - and a great way for families to enjoy time together.

“What IS Bird Watching?”

Bird watching is more than just observing birds. It is an interest in the actual birds - their names, markings, activities, songs and habitats. Not only does it encourage a child (or an adult) to learn about birds, but gets them outside and builds an appreciation of local wildlife and nature.

Bird watching doesn’t require a strong knowledge of birds; you can learn with your children as you begin to locate and identify local wild birds. You can keep a list of the birds you’ve spotted and help one another identify what you’ve seen by making notes of the color, size and markings on the bird. You may even start to learn their calls and can challenge yourself to identify the birds by their songs.

“Where Can We Go to Bird Watch?”

Bird watching can be as simple an activity as setting up a bird feeder in your backyard and watching the local wild birds that come to you. However, your children will no doubt appreciate time spent outdoors, properly geared up for an outing of bird watching with you.

You will soon learn about the specific habitats that birds live in around your home. As you become familiar with local birds you may even want to take trips to areas that will feature different species than you have locally. Watch as your children eagerly try to identify these new birds before you do!

“What Do We Need?”

Bird watching is a very inexpensive hobby. If you are going to be outside you will want everyone to have proper attire - including an extra pair of socks and a hat.

Other than that you will need at least one pair of binoculars, although it is more fun if everyone has their own pair so nobody misses out on a sighting. A bird book (called a field guide) will help you to identify the birds you see. You should find one that features birds in your area since it will also give you suggestions about where to find them.

If your children are older, or you catch the bird watching bug, you should also take a notepad and camera. Take notes on birds you can’t identify and look them up at home with your children to determine what you saw. You might also develop a list of local birds and check them off as you see them. This is great for kids who thrive on challenge!

Bird watching is a fantastic hobby that the whole family can enjoy. Try it one afternoon and see for yourself how your family bonds while enjoying the fresh air and local scenery!

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Attracting Wild Birds to Feeding in Your Garden

October 27th, 2008

“Attracting Wild Birds to Feeding in Your Garden”

If you want to attract as many wild birds to your garden as possible, it is up to you to provide for all their needs. Fortunately it does not take too much work to attract a variety of beautiful guests to your outdoor ‘hotel’- as long as you know what they’re looking for.

PROVIDING THE RIGHT FOOD

What you want more than anything is to become known as a reliable feeding spot. Wild birds will find several feeding areas that they will visit regularly, by offering a good supply you will make it onto their feeding route. Be patient, however, as they become familiar with your offerings. Some birds may only start feeding in your yard when other sources have become scarce, but if they like it they’ll be sure to return.

Different species prefer different foods so provide a variety of seeds, berries and natural sources of nourishment to attract the greatest variety of birds. You might start with black sunflower seeds, white millet or safflower seeds. Try various seeds to determine what offerings are preferred by the birds in your area.

Provide the food from several sources since each species has a different preference. The ground is an easy place to scatter seeds and will attract small birds like sparrows. Safflower is unappealing to squirrels so putting it on a raised platform that is attached to a pole, your windowsill or a porch railing, will discourage them from stealing it from birds that prefer to eat above the ground.

Other birds prefer a hanging feeder. Place it in a tree or on your home where you can view it easily from inside.

Planting shrubs and trees that provide a natural source of seeds or berries will be a big draw for your yard. Dogwoods have a sweet fruit many birds like and holly will provide nourishment in the winter when the more favored berries are hard to find or already eaten.

OFFERING FRESH WATER

Birds love a fresh supply of water. You can make your offer of water as humble as a large bowl on a tree stump or as elaborate as a pond - your birds won’t care. Moving water will prevent mosquitos from breeding but you can also take care to empty and refill a bird bath to prevent breeding as well.

Winter makes it difficult for birds to find unfrozen water so be sure to use a bird bath with a heater or replace the water as necessary.

NESTING AND PROTECTION FROM THE ELEMENTS

Thick trees like evergreens make a good home, offering protection from predators and harsh elements. Thick grasses and shrubs also provide protection and nesting areas.

Choose plants that can be left to seed and you will be offering both home and food to your little guests - ensuring they will find your yard the perfect home for them and their little ones year after year.

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